HDT Buckskin Gulch to Wire Pass

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Photo: Sliver of Blue Sky in Narrows

Yesterday, Fairweather came into town. She had done the Vermillion Cliffs alternates. She is an amazing hiker, very strong, and she's doing many alternate routes adding considerable mileage to her trip.

On Friday, I was to hike Buckskin Gulch and Fairweather would go back to where she got off at Hwy89A to continue into the Grand Canyon. Yeti dropped me off early and then later after lunch he drove her to her spot. Then, he was able to take House Rock Valley Road from the Arizona side to get to Wire Pass where he'd pick me up.

My hike began basically in a non-descript wash (ditch really), which was not very scenic at all. Gradually it transitions to the Buckskin Gulch, but not the stupendous narrow part. So, for 8 miles it was wash walking...luckily there are many cow paths along the wash which are easier to walk on so I did that.

At about noon, I got to a parking lot for the Buckskin Gulch trail into the narrows. It had a privy, which provided some shade. I sat under the eaves and cooked a meal, taking a nice long midday break. Day hikers filtered in and out, including quite a few people on horseback!

Now, the best of this section began. Immediately the terrain and type of rock changed. It became a red rock fantasy. The gulch was still wide in the beginning with quite a lot of green vegetation...it must get lots of spring and fall water when it can also get flash floods. There had been no rain recently so I was not worried. Got to be careful in this area. Again I walked mostly on the cow paths or trail. It was a lovely hike, quite hot already (upper 70s) and no shade. I saw the most wildflowers in Buckskin Gulch including Indian Paintbrush, Mallow, and various vetches. Also some interesting blooming grasses and shrubs. Many lizards fled my plodding feet as I walked by!

Finally the big payoff...the walls narrowed and I got shade! It was delightful to be in the cooler air. And the undulating walls are fascinating. I love the way the light is on the rocks when it manages to get in. I did have to wade through 4 or 5 pools of water before getting to Wire Pass junction. The walls open up to a dramatic hall with petroglyphs! I did see quite a few people in here. It is also the junction going to the Wave so many people come through there. The Lower Buckskin Gulch would continue here as well...but I was heading out via the Hayduke route to Wire Pass where Yeti would pick me up.

This short 1.5 miles was quite exciting as it had some of the most narrow passageways. I had worn my full pack and once or twice I probably should have taken it off to climb over obstacles...but I didn't and it made it harder. At the end of the narrows there was a ladder to climb up a steep drop-off. Without the ladder, that would be a tough climb...maybe needing ropes? The trail widened into a sandy track and after a bit who do I see but Yeti walking towards me. We finished the section together. Gulped a cold drink and off we went back to Kanab to get cleaned up and fed. I'll rest up now for the Grand Canyon adventure - it will be the longest haul that I've had to do on this trip. I will be out 5 days/4 nights. But, it's on trail and lowish miles, so I'm hopeful that it will go well.

Weather may change a bit: Sunday, Monday and maybe even Tuesday morning may have rain and/or storms. Won't really impact me, but I'm a bit worried about Fairweather as she'll hit the Nankoweap Trail during this period. This is not a trail for the faint hearted: its steep, narrow, unmaintained, and very exposed. You can't make a mistake on this one. I would not want to be on that trail in a storm. Hope she'll be lucky and squeak through before any really foul weather.

Yeti will see her up on the south rim on the 9th. I'll miss her there as I'll still be on my route. We are hoping to see her at the end. I finish on May 18 and she will blow into Hurricane on that day. It's not that far from where we'll be, so hoping to have lunch or dinner with her. She's taking a zero on the 19th and we'll still be there - I booked two nights at the motel and even have a celebration dinner booked at a good restaurant already!

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