Photo: Stairway to Heaven in the Redwall
May 14 So. Kaibab Trail to Cottonwood Campground on the No. Kaibab We left the Red Feather Lodge in Tusayan by 5:30am so I could catch the 6am shuttle to the trailhead. The park doesn't allow cars on that road. There was quite a line for the bus including a bunch of Arizona Trail thru-hikers. Yeti chatted for a bit with Trippin' who was at the head of the line. Very good shuttle and got to the TH shortly after 6.
The South Kaibab Trail is a superhighway - after all it must be safe for mule pack trains. It is well constructed and wide. Also, it is a very gradual down - I was expecting more steepness. Quite a few people on trail already. Dayhikers would probably turn back by the Topoff. There were some Rim to Rim folks too, I'll bet.
Absolutely stunning views of the Canyon from the trail. It is a very scenic route. At the Topoff there is a covered rest station providing much needed shade and composting privies! I was doing a much faster pace as a result of the easy-going down, and was excited to get my first glimpse again of the Colorado River. We crossed the So. Kaibab Bridge and could see the massive operation for the big water project in progress. It will update the way water gets to the So. Rim. Lots of helicopters, workers, and some trail closures as a result. Got to Phantom Ranch pretty early (10:30?) and took a nice break, sipping a tall lemonade and cooking a main meal. There were picnic tables under the trees and very brazen squirrels who were eager to get to the food!
After lunch, I got ready for the climbing. Seven miles to Cottonwood Campground where I hoped to stay. Technically my permit called for At Large camping lower down, but that was crazy...I'd never make it up to the No. Rim next day if I did that. Also, I'd have been in camp by noon!
Winding up canyon going over numerous bridges. The trail was moderately steep so I was doing good time. Saw more Arizona Trail hikers and then runners coming down - more Rim to Rim folks. Don't know how they got into the No. Rim, as it would not open until the next day. Yeti should be at Li's house by now.
It was very pretty in the canyon - lots of vegetation and quite green. Areas of the Grand Canyon do have lots of water and this is one of them. We followed the creek the whole way up.
I got to Cottonwood Campground and looked for the Stock camp, where I would stay. It's kind of a spill-over area. Cottonwood is quite large and has a ranger outpost as well as privies, water, and someone said cabins! I didn't see those. It was 2:30pm and I almost considered just taking a long break and hiking further, but in the end I had hiked 15 miles and was tired. So, I stayed. Chatted with a bunch of AZTers which passed the time. An English hiker, John, and a woman named Starfish also camped in the Stock site. Chatted while John and his friend Gary cooked (I'd already eaten). I was cowboy camping again. By 7:00pm, we were all done and heading for the sack. I slept really well and was going to get an early start in the morning. 7 miles but over twice the elevation gain - so much steeper trail.
May 15 Cottonwood Campground
I got up at around 4:30am and it was starting to get lighter. By 5am, I was packed up and could see well so off I went. I wanted to hike while it was cool and also to get an early start in case it took me forever to climb to the North Rim.
First stop: Manzanita Rest Stop just 1.5 miles from Cottonwood. Lovely rest area for hikers with water spigot, picnic tables, and one of the GC huge composting privies. An AZT hiker came up and stopped to fix breakfast - she later passed me on the trail.
After this the steep trail really started and didn't much let up. We crossed over to the other side of the creek and up we went. The most dramatic section soon began - the Redwall. The rocks are a variety of shades of red. Amazing trail here, very good footing and well-constructed so it made the climb easier. Also, it was still relatively cool and shaded, which really helps. I bumped into a hiker who as it turns out is married to one of the Backcountry rangers. He had just come down as far as Roaring Springs and he was picking up trash, primarily toilet paper! That's a real service...not a pleasant task. Can't understand hikers who would drop TP along this vulnerable trail - no where to bury it...disgusting. Some people just don't care.
Also, the onslaught of Rim to Rim hikers began. It was Grand Central Station on the trail. It was the opening day at the No. Rim so the floodgates were opened. It was exciting to cross the Red Wall Bridge. Then the trail steepened and soon we were at the Supai Tunnel. Just before, there is a big flat area - again privies! I think there is usually water here, but with the water project that was not available. A tourist mule train was resting there. A couple of the AZT hikers were taking a break and I joined them for a quick snack. Almost to the top - only 1.6 miles to go.
I was very pleased with my progress. Even though I was not in thru-hiker condition, I was not doing badly on this steep trail. Now, into the Coconino level. Rock color and soil changes from the deep red to a whiter/grey color. More trees here too. There was more sun on the trail now, so getting warmer though a breeze helped. More day hikers coming down the trail, too. I was getting tired. Almost there.
Finally, I could see something shiny which usually means a parking lot. And, there was Yeti looking down! He'd come to meet me, but not in the car! Yikes I had to walk to Li's which luckily was not that far. Got cleaned up, had a snack, and soon Li came to have lunch. We feasted on a white bean chicken chili that he'd made. Delicious. Resting and doing nothing strenuous for the rest of the day! We will stay in for dinner and enjoy more of that chili with salad. Li is a good cook. His apartment is surrounded by trees - the north rim is much different than the So. Rim.
Tomorrow we'll head over to Colorado City where I will pick up the alternate route to Hwy 9 just outside of Zion National Park. I think I may hike in a few miles so the next day (Saturday) is shorter. Then, on the Zion on Sunday and the finish line!