Photo: Looking back at Pwll Deri with Hostel

Fishguard to Trefin, 17 miles Luckily, the staff at the Rose & Crown were okay with getting me breakfast a bit earlier than their usual 8:30am start. At 7:45am I went into the dining room and the woman there cooked me a breakfast sandwich and a pot of Welsh tea. I was able to get on the trail by 8:15. It would be a long day.

It was a sunny morning with some high clouds – cool and a bit breezy. I had a stiff climb up stairs to re-gain the path on the cliffs as it left Fishguard. I passed by many small coves and several “fingers” of land that jutted out into the sea. A highlight was Strumble Head and the lighthouse here which now is totally automated. Great views all around. There is a road to the lighthouse and a parking lot – so there were a group of people – was glad to get past the mob and be in quiet. Looking back at the lighthouse was stunning – the sunny sky helped buoy my mood and made the miles pleasant. Saw two lovely white horses grazing – I passed right by them. I also started to see hikers with packs and surmised that they had been at the Pwll Deri hostel the night before. The wind, however, was picking up and later there were fierce gusts that almost knocked me over – I had to brace again the wind.

The drama of the coves and cliffs continued until I arrived during high winds at the Pwll Deri hostel which sits high above a large cove. The hostel was closed as they usually are during the day, but I sat against the wall of the building to try to get out of the wind and had lunch. Originally, I’d hoped to stay here and have two short days instead of 17 miles, but the hostel booking site said a two night minimum, so I didn’t stay there. Anyway, it was in a stunning setting and would have been nice. Facing more wind, I continued along passing some hikers with packs – they were probably heading to the hostel! By mid-afternoon reached Aber Mawr – a large stony beach that I did walk across. There were some hardy souls in wet suits surfing! Eleanor, Mathew’s wife, had grown up very near here, so I though of her as I walked over the rocky beach. Big climb back up to the cliffs. It clouded over a bit and I was keeping close watch on the map and features so I would not miss the turn into Trefin. Lucky me, the path was signed – a half mile walk into the village! It’s very small with homes, a pub, and maybe a small store that was closed when I arrived.

I checked into the Old Schoolhouse Hostel (an independent hostel – fewer rules) where I had a private room with shower. Breakfast was self-serve, so I could go early if I chose. I then headed for a fish and chips supper at the Ship Inn – the only pub in town. Good food and nice wine again! It rained quite heavily for a while during dinner, but then stopped and cleared by up. After the meal it was back to the hostel for much needed rest.