Photo: Cliffs beyond Cat Rock west of Newport

Newport Parrog to Trefin, 12 miles Got up early so I could catch the 8:32 bus to Newport/Parrog, where I’d start my hike. Grey skies but dry so far. The driver kindly let me out on the road into Parrog – a harbor side community a bit outside of the main part of Newport. I soon found the path along the water and I was off. A mizzle of rain...so I suited up with my rain jacket.

Level path alongside houses soon became greener and rises above the sea on pasture land along the cliffs. It was wonderful to walk along the sea hearing the waves crashing on the rocks. Many of the coves passes have very steep walls and no beaches so they are not accessible from the path. In the morning, I passed a series of coves and rock features – Cat Rock, Aber Step, an Aberfforest. Welsh names are a challenge as English pronunciation of the letters doesn’t necessary apply.

My route clocked in at 12 miles and the book was a bit confusing and as a result I opted not to hike Dinas Head – a beautiful cliff that juts out into the sea. I thought that would add two miles to my trip and as it was mizzling and foggy decided that it was not worth it. Views wouldn’t be great and I was worried about doing too much on the first day. There was an inland route and that’s what I did. I was able to see Needle Rock from the main path. Turned out – the 12 miles included Dinas Head! Oh, well. A good excuse to come back and do it on a bright sunny day.

Anyway, the inland route was a pleasant easy .6 mile walk (Cym-yr-Egwys) that ended at a beach and a restaurant! I had my lunch sitting on a bench watching a black dog running back and forth into the waves! It was mostly dry at this stage, so I could sit a while without getting wet. I had a climb back up to the cliffs from the beach and continued along the coast. Autumn colors were already in evidence – browns, reds, yellows. The path here continues to go in and out of the many coves along the coast and I was able to walk over beach at Aberbach – though mostly you stay high above the steep cliffs. Often you walk through farm fields with grazing sheep. By mid-afternoon as I got closer to Fishguard the sun broke out! So it was a lovely approach into town, which I could see in the distance. The old Lower Fishguard was very charming with a cafe on the pier and charming homes painted all kinds of pastel colors. From the old town, you climb up a paved road to what is called the “modern” Fishguard – here I went astray a bit. First, I see a cafe and stop for a wonderful cappucino. My mistake was not to ask directions here and not to use my brain and eyes more carefully. I ended up wasting about 40 minutes walking around in circles ending up right back by the cafe. I then turned around and saw the sign for the Marine Walk – exactly what I wanted. I must say the sign was not easily visible as I approached the road from the climb up to town. The Marine Walk followed the harbor over to Goodwick, where I was to stay the night.

Soon, I arrived at the Rose & Crown and checked into my single room – it was small but the room and bath looked pretty new and modernized. It was comfy and all I needed. I had dinner (glass of wine, stew and sticky toffee pudding for dessert!) at the restaurant at the inn – good food. Weather had been cool (50s-60s) but not as wet as the weather report indicated!